My Kenmore Elite 76572 refrigerator is not cooling properly. I set the freezer and fridge temperatures to 0 deg F and 37 deg F respectively, as recommended but they go back to 12/14 deg F and 50/52 deg F, needless to say it is not making ice.

1. Kenmore Elite Trio Refrigerator Troubleshooting

The light, compressor etc. So far I tried shutting it off for over 5 minutes but in vain. I also saw some frost that I scrapped off and left the fridge disconnected from electricity and doors open for few minutes to get rid of all the frost but no improvement. Any suggestions?

This is a great answer and I learned a lot, thanks! And it helped stump me further. Our fridge (this model) was freezing everything hard and then suddenly it wasn't, then it was then it wasn't.

Kenmore Elite Trio Refrigerator Troubleshooting

At Kenmore we are here to help. On our Customer Care page, you can find warranty and repair info and a whole lot more. Call or email Customer Service and get prompt answers to your questions. On our Customer Care page, you can find warranty and repair info and a whole lot more. Mar 28, 2008 - READ THE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS IN THIS MANUAL. SERVICE MANUAL. Model #s: 70.

Now it really isn't. I replaced the evaporator fan; it worked briefly but doesn't seem to be coming on now. The condenser fan and condenser sound like they're working (I cleaned them and verified that they were working at least while I was looking at them).

The evaporator is crusted with frost at 30 F on the right side where the refrigerant comes in; on the left the evaporator is at 48 F. Do I have a sensor or control problem, such that it's not starting the evaporator and fan?

I would love to have your prognostications on this! I have a Kenmore with a slightly different issue. My system runs for 7 to 8 hours and then the evaporator and condenser fans start to cycle off then on. The refrigerator and freezer eventually warm up until I unplug it for a while and plug it back in. Then the system will run normally get to the proper temperature and start to fail at the 7 to 8 hour mark.

I have tried replacing the main board, the power inverter. Then I started to troubleshoot the defrost components because it sounded like it may be a defrost issue.

The continuity check on the heater element was good, the check on the defrost sensor was good, and I replaced the freeze Thermistor because the readings look little strange and it was only $16. The system is still exhibiting the same issues does anyone have any suggestions at this point.

The compressor does turn on and off as it should when the temperature gets to where it needs to be in both compartments. 'If this is the same model as our the condenser failed due to the airflow is from the back not from the front like most models causing the frig to overheat and the condenser to quit. Had the condenser, compressor and coil replaced and works fine for now.

Tech said it would happen again if we couldn't find a way to get more air flow to the back of the frig. It's a poor design!' Would love to know how much this cost. There is no inexpensive way to allow more air to the back. Do I replace these every couple of years or just bite the bullet and buy a new refrigerator?

Condenser Coils are Dirty If the refrigerator is not cold enough the condenser coils may be dirty. The condenser is like a radiator and must stay clean in order to dissipate the heat which was removed from the inside of the refrigerator. As the coils get dirtier the refrigerator becomes less efficient, which makes it work harder to cool down. If the coils are dirty enough, the unit will never be cold enough and will not be able to cool the inside of the refrigerator to the proper temperature.

Evaporator Fan Motor If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the evaporator fan motor might have failed. Every refrigerator has a set of coils called an evaporator. The refrigerator may have one or more evaporator fan motor(s) depending on the model and evaporator locations. The evaporator fan motor circulates the cold air from the coils thru the compartment. If there is only one evaporator it is in the freezer side.

If the fan is not working, no cold air will get to the refrigerator compartment. The freezer may still get cold. Condenser Fan Motor If the refrigerator is not cold enough there might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor might be defective. The condenser fan motor draws air over the condenser coils to cool them. The condenser fan motor is located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.

Start Relay If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the start relay may be defective. The start relay is a small device mounted to the side of the compressor. It provides power to the run winding along with the start winding for a split second at start-up to help get the compressor started. If the start relay is defective the compressor may run intermittently or not at all and the refrigerator will not get cold enough.

The start relay should be replaced if defective. Temperature Control Thermostat If the refrigerator does not get cold enough the temperature control thermostat might be defective. The thermostat allows power to flow through to the compressor, evaporator fan and condenser fan. If the cooling system fans and compressor are running, but the refrigerator or freezer is not cooling correctly check for an airflow or defrost system problem. Start Capacitor If the refrigerator isn't cold enough the compressor might be having difficulty starting.

The start capacitor serves as a battery to give the compressor a little boost during start-up. If the start capacitor is burned out the compressor might not be able to start and run as often as it should. Test the start capacitor first with a capacitance meter, they don't fail often. If it's defective, replace it. Thermistor If the refrigerator is not cold enough the thermistor might be defective.

The thermistor is a sensor which monitors the air temperature. It is connected to the control board. If the thermistor is defective the refrigerator does not cool or may cool continuously. Temperature Control Board If the refrigerator is not cold enough the temperature control board might be defective. The temperature control board provides the voltage to the fan motors and compressor.

These boards are often misdiagnosed. Check all other components to be certain this is the cause of the problem. Compressor If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the compressor might be defective.

The compressor is a motor which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. There are several other components which are more likely to be defective if the compressor doesn't work. If the compressor itself is defective a licensed professional will need to replace it. Main Control Board If the refrigerator is not cold enough the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check the defrost system, cooling fans, and cooling controls first.

I thought your response to the question was the most accurate and helpful that I could find anywhere on the net. I feel that I have narrowed down the problem with my 3 year old Kenmore side-by-side model 106.5118 because of your information. Now I am seeking more guidance in taking it to the next step of repair. Although I have extensive background in mechanical service, I have yet to disassemble a modern day refer. I am having slight difficulty locating a schematic for the location of the evaporator fan motor which I am confident is the problem. If you should have any information about this unit, I would greatly appreciate getting back with me. I just had my 2011 Kenmore elite troubleshot by a technician for no cooling in both freezer and upper compartment.

( Model # 79572053.110) Compressor is running along with both condenser and evaporator fan motors. A technician is recommending to check the refrigerant levels? He does not think it is the thermistor or anything that was suggested in your recommendations? When compressor is running black wire reads 1.04 amps, red wire reads 1.14amp.

Since this unit has an inverter not sure if this is the correct amperage? I have been looking on line for information and/or a repair manual that I can get my hands on however I cannot find one which is the same complaint other people have mentioned in their blogs. What's your thoughts? How would you rate a 31 - 36 CU Profile Refrigerator? I have a sisde by side that was warming up, noticed the ice maker quit making ice first then everything else started feeling warmer.

First thought was the coils. Pulled the fridge out removed the rear cover. Low and behold the condenser fan blade had literally fell off the motor. Has anyone else ever seen this before. It just presses into the shaft. I pressed it back on and will check the temp in the morning but the ice make is making ice again already.

Any ideas as how to keep it from just falling off again? I have a really bad problem with a Kenmore going on for over three months now.

No cooling in the fridge or freezer the temp. On the door reads 81 for the fridge and 69 in the freezer they have been out several times replacing different parts to no avail. I really do not know what to do it is less than a year old. The temp on the door will not change and the repairman just asks why do I want to change it just leave it in default temp.

I feel like if this is an option why can't I change it. Sorry for running on just don't know where to turn now. Maybe they will replace it. Any suggestions?

I had this issue. On these refirgerators, it's the compressor that's bad.

Kenmore has a ten year warranty on the compressor on this model THAT INCLUDES LABOR, the corresponding LG does not. Once my compressor was in, the freezer was fine but the fridge won't hit proper temp until it is full of food. Also, the repair guys said they have issues with ALL new refrigerators. I had a neighbor that had a $3,000 Frigidaire go bad after only two years, and my landlord's Samsung also has a ton of issues. This is not unique to LG or Kenmore.

It's time to speak out for your right to repair We have a chance to guarantee our right to repair electronic equipment—like smartphones, computers, and even farm equipment. This is a once-in-a-generation chance to protect local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out by manufacturers. Join the cause and tell your state representative to support Right to Repair.

Tell them you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible. Stand up for your right to repair!